Hanoi and Ha Long Bay, Vietnam
An emergency vacation, so forgive the poor planning!
Trip Taken December 31st 2010 – January 9th 2011
I have to go back to planning better, and start doing that much ahead of time too, else the trips get a bit too adventurous and a little uncomfortable! So I planned Vietnam in a week. Europe had the worst snow storms, London was no better, Italy was cancelling flights all over the place. So I cancelled my trip to Italy and London and looked east for what I thought would be a warm destination. I guess I didn’t read enough or spend enough time on research!
The plan was quite basic, really. The main event was Ha Long Bay. But I had nine days, so I thought may as well do some more sightseeing in and around Hanoi. I knew it was too short a time to bother getting south, more time and money wasted in travel than taking in Vietnam, so I decided to find what most interests me in the north. Even that was difficult, as the north is mountainous and, closer to the chinese border, the mountains rise high and do get cold. It is also where the hill tribe people are, settled generations ago from Thailand, China and lands around it over time.
One of the things I have always wanted to do is to stay at a village with a tribe, see what life is for them on a daily basis. It is and has to be quite a world apart from the city. So I looked online for a company that fits the bill. I came across ANZ travel, looked like a decent web site; they even had day trips to different parts of the city of Hanoi. Since I only had 3 full days in Hanoi, I decided to do one day trip and one overnight trip to a tribal village about four and a half hours from the city. Day One, the local trip, was to take me to the ceramic village, snake village and silk village. They said the trip started at 8am and ended at around 5pm, and that seemed like a full day so I opted for that. Language being a big problem, internet only works so much with questions and details directly with them. But time was running short so I took my chances.
The visa process to Vietnam is quite simple, although a little strange. You can apply for an online visa with a credit card through a number of companies, provide the information they seek just on a simple application, and they send you an approved visa to your registered email. Usually, a normal time for this is about a week. The faster you want it, the more you pay. Dumb me, since Cambodia and Thailand worked as a visa on arrival for me, I didn’t think too much about this part, assuming it must be the same, and so ended up paying the highest amount of $29.99 for fast processing. Anyway, I got the visa fast enough, within 24 hours as promised. Then you print the visa, show all the documents again physically at the airport of landing in Vietnam, and pay another $20.00 for them to stamp it and let you in> the double payment doesn’t make a whole lot of sense, but it is what it is.
So I landed in Vietnam around 2pm, having spent New Year’s Eve in an empty plane. It was cooler than I expected, much more so, and overcast. The rain part I read about: it rains all the time and off and on, so be prepared. I had booked a taxi to pick me up and take me to the hotel. I figured it would be easier to stay with one company for the whole thing, hotel car and all, since language is a big problem, I had read about plenty of scams from the time one steps out of the plane, and since I was travelling alone for the first 4 days. As expected, a guy holding my name sign picked me up, and as we were on our way, handed me the phone to speak to the girl I was dealing with in the travel agency. Well, she said the hotel she had promised me was full, so she would need to put me at another one for the first night. I didn’t think much of it, I travel enough to know these things don’t go exactly according to plan, so I went along.
The car dropped me off at what looked like a motel, but in central part of the town, narrow lanes and full of shops and people. Before I understood or realized what kind of a place it was, the driver left me with my bags and took off. Well, it was ok, but not what I had agreed to pay for. This is why I don’t pay 100% upfront, although every one demands it. It just doesn’t work that way! I was so tired from a long week at work and a long plane ride through the night that I ate and fell asleep by 6pm, not to wake up until 6am the next morning! Even the cold didn’t bother me too much, and the no heater.
I woke up hoping my car and English speaking guide would fix the bad hotel, and that we can all smile and move on. The guide did come, on time, and I assumed things were going to be fine and there was a plan in place for the shifting of hotels. So off we went to the ceramic village… which, after driving for over an hour, turned out to be closed because it was Sunday! So I got to visit one place, see one workshop. We got done with that pretty soon, it was disappointing, but I had made it plenty clear several times that the most interesting thing for me is the snake village, and since I am the ever-positive child, I looked ahead to the next destination.
Well, for one, they couldn’t keep driving me up and down a road at one point, in what looked like a suburb. Apparently the snakes areas was on a holiday too, and after looking like they were looking, then stunned, they declared it was the dual effect of a Sunday and the continued celebration of the New Year. So we went on to the Silk Village, the last destination for the day. That was actually a little interesting, seeing silk from the silk worm stage, to the old weavers making the cloth, to the finished, beautiful products sold everywhere. As tourism is a main source of income in this area, prices are more or less fixed, but if you buy a few things, and you are persistent, I’m sure you can get a decent discount. They aren’t pricey really, to begin with. Tops for $8, dresses for $20. Beautiful prints and well made, so that brightened up my day!
The guide realized I was upset because what was meant to be 8:30am to 4:30pm program, suddenly seemed done at lunch! So he was nice enough to offer to do a small walking tour as well. So we started at the Hoan Kiem Lake which is a main attraction, with several historic places around it including Turtle tower, Hanoi Opera House, and a Buddhist temple on its banks. We walked down the Old quarter, past shop after shop of cheap goods mixed with expensive ones here and there, dodging traffic which left no walk room even, protecting myself and my back pack. Interesting for those from countries where things are too organized and there is traffic laws, but not so hot for me since I live in India and deal with pollution and congestion in chaos daily! Anyway, that is part of Hanoi, and that is fine too.
Day three, Hill tribes north of Hanoi, about a 4.5hrs drive, and overnight stay in a tribal village. The drive is quite nice. There is no natural village with the tribes that you stay with. The whole village is a set up for tourists to feel like they are away from Hanoi in the mountains. Depressing, actually. The houses were all numbered “Guest House #**”. Great, the whole village existed for tourists. So, except for the hosts and guides and drivers, I was surrounded by tourists, mostly large groups from Australia, Europe and America. Upon seeing this, I asked to be taken back to Hanoi, at which point my driver and guide said they’d check something and be back, and didn’t show up till night fall when they knew we can not drive back. For what it is worth, my hosts were very polite, taught me to make spring rolls from scratch, and even though they didn’t speak a word of English, tried to include me in their daily normal evening. A tribal dance was performed by the ladies after dinner, which was quite a nice treat. Of course, during all this, don’t forget the north is much colder and higher in altitude, so I was once again wearing my whole suitcase!
Until this point I was by myself, but then my friend joined me on this merciful third night upon my return from the tribal village. So the fourth day we took off for the best part of the vacation: Ha Long Bay. It is a 3.5hr drive, and not a very scenic one, but time went by just the same. By this point, the cold was a part of the trip, so I didn’t think too much of it and had given in to the idea that it wasn’t going to be an outdoor trip too much. By the time we reached the bay at around noon, it was a little foggy but that is to be expected in the darn near freezing cold. The sun wasn’t going to be out for days; that is just how it was going to look! Nonetheless, it was beautiful.
I booked the White Dolphin, a beautiful boat with just two suites. At a price of about $750 for two nights, it didn’t come cheap, but it wasn’t as expensive as it would have been in a western country, of course. We cruised the open bay and saw these magnificent limestone structures that just seem to emerge out of the water from time to time. We also canoed into a cave way, saw the highlighted stalagmites and stalactites, and awed at the beauty of the clear water and the colourful surface beneath up close. The food was good and the presentation wonderful. The liquor, top notch, was cheap compared to any hotel possible. We wondered how much better it would have been if it was warmer, but other than that, the sights were spectacular and mystical.
We also visited the Thein Cung grotto, the tourist attraction for the best view of these limestone formations. It is indeed marvellous and educational, except for the lighting that takes away from the natural wonder feel and adds a little bit of tacky disco! But that is tourism influencing natural décor. The town of Ha Long Bay itself was dead, not many people at all and probably not worth staying an extra night there. A beach town should be dead in the dead of winter, I guess. The interesting thing was, many boats weren’t full at that time and a few other tourists said their larger boats weren’t even half full. I guess that is a good thing as I can only imagine how maddening it would be with a crowd in such a peaceful and serene location.
We stayed one more night in Hanoi, to finish shopping on the way out, and left for home. I have to say, most parts of Vietnam that I saw didn’t live up to my expectation of what I heard of it as a tourist hotspot, and the tourism industry isn’t that good in what is a communist country still. But I can definitely see how backpacking with an endless amount of time will show one more hidden treasure than how I went about it. Ha Long Bay, however, is one of my Top Ten places on earth, and off my bucket list!
The important lesson here was some dumb travelling tips that paid off: I refuse to pay more than 50% before I get to a place. If the service sucks and things aren’t right, bargaining it down and fighting for your rights will pay off only if you have patience and time, or else they will wear you out. I ended up paying the first company $300 for the first three days instead of the $450 we initially agreed upon. them know the hotel was so bad the first two nights, I got my own for the third night because I was tired, cold and didn’t trust their choice of a better hotel. Besides that most basic tip, the only other I strongly recommend is to carry your own medicines since the language barrier is a big issue and medicines and names don’t match at all.



















