Wayanad, Kerala
Hiking in Wayanad District
Trip Taken June 2009
This trip to Kerala was something that materialized as I stumbled cross its Northern natural beauty from across the hills in Coorg, Karnataka. As I sat on top of a mountain there, I asked my guide how I can get to the lush green mountains a little more south. What was I looking at? Why does it seem like dense forests and beautiful mountain ranges? He replied it was the Wayanad District of Kerala. I knew I had to go home and do my research to get there.
So, in my eagerness to go as soon as possible, I didn’t listen to the stories about how the rainy season is not the best time of the year and how the leeches are everywhere! So began my nature trip to Wayand. Its landscape is made up of the Western Ghats, numerous streams, lakes and waterfalls.
The easiest and fastest way to get there from Hyderabad was a flight into Bangalore and a 6 hour drive into Kerala. I mapped it out so I would start at the bottom of Wayanad district and work my way around to the north and back to Bangalore. It was a four nights, five day trip.
The drive itself is beautiful and through the remote villages and jungles of Nagarhole and Bandipur in Karnataka, then further south through Muthanga Wildlife Sanctuary to the little town of Vythiri. As it was off season, we did get a 20% discount on the stay; I would have willingly paid the entire amount to stay in a dream tree house, all inclusive with a living room, bedroom and a well equipped bathroom. The best way to find these is to search for Vythiri Resorts. There are a few resorts in a small jungle area. The one I choose was Stream Valley Cottages because it had the tree house I was looking for.
Pookot Lake, Vythiri
Within a couple of kilometers of it was the Pookot Lake. Although not a great attraction for many, it is a beautiful lake in the middle of mountain ranges. They have done well to keep on paddle boats on hand so as to not disturb the wild life and add unnecessary pollution. There is a walk path all the way around the lake, and the peace and quiet added to the experience. Since we had a little bit of a late start, we spent until lunch there.
We stopped for lunch in a village so small, you will go through it if you blink for a minute. The people are very friendly, always smiling and welcoming. It is not as crowded as any part of India that I have seen, and the roads so far were amazing!
After lunch, we decided it was time to burn the food, so we drove to Meenmutty waterfalls. Even though there is a sign that says 2km to the waterfalls at the turn, be ready for a difficult and dangerous hike! Our guide was a tribal who spoke no English and who also walked the path as gracefully and effortlessly as if he were walking on a footpath in the city. I, on the other hand, wondered how to ask him to turn back around and get me to safety a couple of times. The mud was slippery, the slope was steep and there was a rope along most of the way to help me not slip down the side of the mountain, to a bottom I could not see! It took about an hour down to the falls. Once you see them, it is a breath taking view, so close to Mother nature I almost screamed with joy. That may have also been because I got there alive! No one but the guide and we were there. Then, I realized, I have to hike up the steep slope to get out! That took 1.5 hours, a lot of sweat and prayers. It’s a good work out, one hell of a way to burn lunch. Distance from Vythiri: 26km
Meenmutty Waterfalls, a dangerous hike during rains!
It was about 4:30pm by now. We were tired and hungry again, but decided, since we have to start finding our way north the next day, we couldn’t waste the whole evening. So, on the advice of a couple of people, we drove to the Banasura Sagar Dam, considered the largest earth dam in India. The drive was up a mountain, coffee and tea plantations on both sides of it, and small villages spread through it. Again, the roads are great; painted and proper signs all along the way and at curves. The dam was a unique sight. The color of the mud was bright, the tress were very green and the water so blue. It was straight out of a postcard. The tiredness in the body was replaced by joy and fascination. Distance from Vythiri; 28km
By the time we reached our cozy tree house, it was 7:30pm. Time for a shower and food. Then we relaxed and fell asleep to the noises of the forest and the monkeys running on top of the tree house.
Next morning, we started out to the Edakkal Caves. It interested me because I had read that the etchings were from 500 years ago, and it has gained serious attention of archeologists and historians worldwide. It is quite a hike up to the caves; not tiresome as much but just a little slippery and dangerous at times. Again, I was very impressed at how clean and well preserved they were. Distance from Vythiri: 27km
Then we made our way to the next place of stay, Begur Wildlife Sanctuary near Tholpetty. As we drove down, we stopped to take in the signs of what was to me the best part of India yet. We followed a sign for a Jain Temple, not having come across anything about it in my research, and found an abandoned, dilapidated temple, which I could see was very old and ornate, now in the middle of a private coffee plantation!
Finally, we got to our guest house there around 5pm. The one temple that is very popular and pilgrims come from all over too visit and pray is the Thirunelly Temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It sits on a hill, surrounded by some of the more dense forests in India, untouched and unknown. It also boasts classical Kerala architecture in a classical and traditional way. Distance from Vythiri to Tholpetty: around 80km
Day three down, night three down.
Day four, we decided to spend discovering the Kuruva Islands. Basically, they are islands in the middle of Kabini River. Depending on the water level, there may be a few more or a few less at any given time. The two main islands are more or less quiet nature sanctuaries. Nothing exciting or happening if that’s what you are looking for. Just trails to take you through the island and a log boat to take you from one island to another. You can spend about three to four hours, maybe pack some sandwiches like we did and just sit by the river.
In the middle of the Tholpetty forest was this sacred place...
The rest of the day was spent just driving aimlessly through the forest, stumbling across some old chariot looking temples and a weird sort of alter which I guessed is to pray to Goddess Kali or Durga. Here’s a picture, maybe you can tell me what it is.
My foot, tiger's foot
Day five, we just arranged for a 15km hike into the Tholpetty forest that lasts about five hours starting at 7am. Along with us came a forest guide and a guy with a gun. It was lush, thick green jungle. We followed the tracks of a tiger and its cubs for a long time, but never got a glimpse of it. We did, however, see elephants, wild boar, deer, plenty birds and monkeys. A couple of leeches on us proved someone was right that they were around. (The thing to do with leeches is: rub wet tobacco leaves all over your shoes. They don’t like the smell. If you get one higher on your leg like I did, put salt on it. They just let go). The fresh air and exercise felt good, if nothing else!
We finally left to head home to Bangalore at 4pm. The drive back was just as scenic and took us through the forest with just enough day light until we got back to the human civilization close to Mysore.
