The Apsara dance, Thailand, Cambodia and Laos' traditional dance

Trip taken August 2009

Alright, I realize this is out of chronological order, even according to the year, but bear with me. Computer knowledge and patience came long after my passion for travel, so it is what it is!

Bangkok is not a slice of Thailand that you can compare the rest of it to. It is, obviously, the show piece of Thailand, attracting people from around the globe for a long time now for commercial reasons, shopping and open night life. None-the-less, it is an entertaining city and a culturally colorful one, the old and new standing side by side.

The modern Bangkok from the Sky Train

I was in Bangkok for only three days as we decided to take advantage of the Thai Airlines offer on our way back from Cambodia. I realize now that no matter how much research I do on the net to figure out where to stay, what area etc, some of it has to do with pure luck. And luck was on my side. The guest house I wanted to stay at vanished, not at the address that was on the net, and the number was disconnected. This is the sadest part of the story. But you got to have bad luck to know when you have good luck…

                                                                                                                                                            I had picked up a random pamphlet that said Bangkok map, opened it dejected and lost in a cab at 11pm, and found an advertisement for a cheap lodge close by. Out of options, hungry and tired, we asked the cab to take us there. Yippikayee, and I found a diamond! Clean, cheap, walking distance to the Asok station where the two main city trains pass through, it was right where I wanted to be. I bow down to the great Sam’s Lodge, Sukhumvit 19.  http://www.samslodge.com/

The ever busy China Town

 Transportation is key here so grab a couple of different kinds of maps, a couple of brochures on things to do and map it out before you get started, or you’ll waste a whole lot of time and money shuttling back and forth. You can take tuk-tuks, but the pollution and traffic is sure to change your voice if you stay in them too long. Cabs are quite expensive, but the traffic is still there. The new metro rails are amazingly clean, on schedule, often and cheap if you buy the daily pass for 120Bht instead of each stop which will cost you 30Bht to 40 Bht. There is the sky train which is worth the ride just to see the city, and the subway (MRT). The pass is valid on both.

God, I'm in love!

I like snakes. They are fascinating, awe inspiring, graceful creatures. If you want to see a great educational live snake show, visit their snake park. The last show begins at 12:30pm, and they are closed on Sundays.

For the mall style expensive shopping, the Siam Paragon has it all. Kao San Road is a back packer’s paradise; cheap and fun guest houses with other back packing travelers, small shops with silk handicrafts and other knick knacks, and a variety of cheap food on the go. The best market I went to was the Chatuchak Weekend Market. It’ll take you half a day to get through it, so take an empty back pack with some water and get ready to stuff it with all the fun things that you will end up buying! The Sky Train stops there, so you don’t have to walk too far.

The flower market, next to the produce market

The historical sights in Bangkok can keep you busy for days together: the palaces, the museums, the Golden Budha, the Temple of Down, and on and on. Do not miss what Thailand is so well know for, exporting flowers. The flower market and local produce market is Ratcha Wong Road, close to a boat stop on the river. A quick boat ride from Saphan Taksin to the Royal Palace will give a beautiful view of the city on both sides, and cover some of the landmarks. You can work your way down from the Palace to China town, walk through the local areas and see daily life in the old areas of Bangkok.

Don’t forget to bargain. Its still Thailand even if it is as westernized on the outside. And don’t forget to make time for a couple of massages. They are cheap and excellent if you go to the local places. I could’ve easily spent a week there, but I was still glad to be able to cover the things that most mattered to me in three days! The night life was too seedy for me so I saved energy by running back to the hotel after a late dinner, and I am not really into “ping-pong” shows so I saved a lot of money too! If you are into these things, be prepared to stay up all night and spend some money. You will find what ever it is your looking for!

Marine Drive at sunset. (Photo taken by a professional photographer friend)

Trip Taken January 2010

I am not sure how I managed not to go to this great city, the Manhattan of the East, so far! Because I assumed it would be so much like New York, and I had been to NY a few times, I had decided there is no need to go to Bombay. I heard of the traffic jams, the pollution, the crime, the poverty and the great distance between any two places. No one really mentioned the sky line, the laid back people, great architechture, majestic roads, colorful markets and the beauty of the old and new buildings that makes Mumbai a must see culture of its own.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus

Not much planning per say is needed. Understand the basic of the bussiest and most crowded city, breathe and accept the organized chaos as a part of its chrm that people are drawn to and study your map well. Transportation is the biggest issue. Local trains are how people commute to work and back, almost 6 million people use the central, harbor and western trains everyday to get around.

If you are unconfortable with that, then the cheapest way is to get into a metered black and yellow non-airconditioned taxi. These are fine during Novemeber to February. There are plenty of private a/c taxis for hire. You want to talk to them about a day’s charge, including how many hours that covers and how many kilometres. Again, as this is not a written transaction, get everything clear upfront. You can break it down to half a day, if you’d like also. My cab driver was polite and prompt and easy to deal with. With his permission, here is his information: Sala-Ud-Din +91-989-206-3834.

The standard fare for a day for an a/c car was Rs.1000 for 10hrs and 120km. Seemed fair enough to us, we took it. Airport charges are different and you want to settle that if it is included in the day.

Leopold cafe feels and looks unimaginably vibrant

What I would call a walking day for the can-not-miss sights in Bombay would start at the Taj Colaba, which is in front of the gateway of India. You can hear a variety of Indian languages and see pigeons flying down to rest between the people all over. A ten minute walk will take you to the Colaba market street. The wonder of this market was that they had everything from well made handicrafts to old compasses that are used on sea for navigation, and everything inbetween. You can’t miss the famous Leopold Cafe in the middle of Colaba and the busy side walk market, with a perpetual crowd waiting for a table. If you think it is only because of the sad terrorist act on 26/11, you’re wrong. The ambience and the food is unbeatable. A true international cafe feel, with Indian, chinese and western food, all very well made at great prices.

Chor Bazaar

The other markets to visit are the Linkin Road in Bandra for some nicer shopping and the Chor Bazaar on Mutton Street. “Chor” means thief or robber, so expect to get a little scared and see the poor crowded market of Mumbai. I myself didn’t spot any tourists around there, which made me nervous since I was sticking out like a sore thumb with a white guy by my side, so we walked for 20 minutes, and when our adreneline started to fade and fear started taking over, even at 3pm in the afternoon, we left! Crowford market is a produce and food market. From pets to spices, fruits and vegetables, a large very colorful experience.

We did visit the Elephanta Caves. Seemed like the thing to do when I read the history of it and saw it is a world heritage site. Unfortunately, that left me feeling like I got taken on a ride like a lot of tourists are when they walk into Ripply’s Blieve It Or Not! There is a lot of history behind the caves, but they were destroyed so badly, there are hardly any carvings to see in the first of the five caves, and the rest are absolutely stripped empty man made caves on the side of a hill. An hour ride there, 1.5hrs at the cave minimum, because you have to climb quite a few stairs to get to them and it can be tiring in heat, and an hour back on the boat seemed like a half day wasted.

Crowford Market

The night life in Mumbai is famous. The reason is pretty simple today, I think: it is the safest city for women in India. People have an attitude of live and let live. They also are fiercely proud of being from Mumbai and show a side of protecting their rights by protecting others that I have seen no where else in India. Fashion at its best, food at its finest and any genre of music that you desire is on the menu. I am a Sushi connoiseur so here is what I have for you: Shiro, next to Hard Rock Cafe, is the best Sushi I have had in a long time, very comprable to any New York restaurant I have eaten at. Tetsuma Sushi in Colaba is expensive but great ambience and interiors, wonderful location. Ph#022-22876578. There are other restaurants down that road and it is one of the more popular dine out areas.

Just a wonderful picture taken by my photographer friend

The popular beaches which are crowded with locals every evening are in Bandra and Juhu. Marine drive itself is a wonderful sight at sunset, a combination of the beautiful Arabic Ocean sunset and the expansive skyline with the city lights. The water is absolutely filthy and not meant to swim in, by my estimation, anyway. If you prove it different, let me know!

Taken from Hotel Marine Plaza's terrace

On a personal note, I must add that I asked for a favor for hotel reservations and ended up in the beautiful boutique sort of hotel right on Marine Drive called Marine Plaza. The interiors and staff and the view from our room added so much to the experience, I was grateful to have begged for this favor! Go there for a meal if you can. It is quite enjoyable. Plus the roof top pool with the mosaic floors are a photographer’s dream, especially at sunset.

That is it for largest city in India. Here are a couple links for interesting facts:

Economy: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mumbai#Economy

Demographics: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mumbai#Demographics