View from Anjani Parvath of the ancient Vijayanagar Empire

The trip to Hampi was quite a spontaneous one, and limited amount of information was available on how to get there and the problem involved in going to a place so remote and small. Simply put, we thought it made for a sensible weekend holiday where we could see and learn about this ancient kingdom. It is equidistant from Hyderabad and Bangalore, about 325km to Hospet Bus Station, from where one can catch an auto to Hampi, about 14km that will take about an hour since there is so much to see along the way.

Hospet itself is just the commercial town close to this now World Heritage Site and is where all the inter-state buses and trains will take you. I don’t know about buses from other places, but there was only one bus service from Hyderabad to Hospet, Diwakar travels, which leaves at about 9pm and gets to Hospet around 7:30 a.m. The time taken is due to the fact that it neither leaves on time nor gets there on time, since they stop at any and every place, and feel free to take half an hour breaks for coffee and to talk.

They (Diwakar Travels who go by the name Ganesh Travels from Hospet back to Hyderabad) will not sell you a round trip ticket between Hyderabad and hospet . They tell you to go buy your ticket there. Find out more about that before you go there. What we should do is buy a ticket as soon as you get down in Hospet in front of that bus office, otherwise you leave for Hampi and have to use a broker who will give you a panic attack on availability and prices! As it turns out for us, going there cost us rs.350.00 in an air conditioned non-sleeper bus where the air was on only half the time, and Rs.600.00 coming back because we had to go through a broker in Hampi as there is no cell service there and it would cost both time and money to go to Hospet and figure it out. Whatever the ticket agent tells you about the kind of return you will have, have him write it down. Be informed, as basically, the locals are interconnected and so are their schemes, and you will end up paying with both time and money otherwise, and get frustrated.

The entrance into the little village of Hampi is in itself a stunning realization that you are actually going to walk into the gates of the town to be in the town. There are a few guest houses outside the gates, but wait until you walk through the whole village, to the banks of the Tungabhadra river, and see a few guesthouses and get prices before you decide what suites you. We got an A/C room with a TV and western toilet for 3 people for Rs.700 a night. We checked in at 10a.m, and since our check out was going to be at 6pm the next day, they gave us that half a day at Rs.400. So, overall, cheaper than we imagined, but it is normal to bargain; the prices are quoted to allow for that.

Hampi is now a protected World Heritage Site and hike along the Tungabhadra river over the mountain made me feel like I was actually following in the footsteps of an old, grand, happy empire. If you have a good guide who is not trying to spice things up for you and buy a guide book that a hundred kids are trying to sell to you, you can paint a picture of the lost and gone empire in its peak and glory. I could actually see a sprawling city situated on the banks of this life giving river and the beauty of the mountains around it to add to the mystique and background.

From the start of the hill to the main temple

We started at the head temple which is the main temple to this day, and prayers are conducted as they always were, morning and evening. Because this is a religious site to the Hindus, alcohol and meat are forbidden inside the gates of Hampi, not that anyone is checking bags at the gate, but if you decide to take it in, don’t attract attention; you will not only hurt the locals’ sentiment but can get in trouble with the police, which won’t make for a pleasant trip!

The courtyard of the temple is large and a lot of sitting areas are provided for the people to congregate and spend some time there. It is large and kept up well. In the evenings, there is an elephant there, the temple’s mascot, and Hindus consider elephants royal animals; they usually lead a procession during religious festivals. The elephant will bless you and take your offerings, be it money or bananas. The gentle weight of the trunk on my head was truly thrilling and I had to repeat it a few times to feel it without excitement flooding my mind.

From the temple, you walk down the main road of Hampi and to a small hill where the ruins start. It is not much of a hike, but the whole walk through the ancient kingdom took about three hours when done leisurely and at a pace that let one absorb and enjoy the ruins. Except for the main temple, the others are not really temples today as the deities were removed over the years and so no prayer takes place inside.

The Vittala Temple

After a break for lunch and an hour’s rest, we took off in an auto with the driver acting as a guide also and went to cover the 12km radius of Hampi’s ruins. There are maps available to let you know what all these are so you don’t have to wonder if you missed anything along the way. Included in that ride was the queen’s bath house, the elephant stables and several smaller temple ruins.

It was a tiring day at the end of May, and at 44degrees, we had ourselves a good tan already and were hungry as can be. At that point, any food is good food, and eggs were allowed so that was as good as it got for us. As an afterthought, it would have paid off for us to take some munchies that we liked along with us as the choices were limited there. We kept to ourselves in the room as we ate and reminisced about the day. But all in all, the heat and the exercise made us sleep unconsciously.

The next day was the day to go to the other side of the Tungabhadra, a ferry ride there starts at 9am, and the last one back is at 6pm. There are a few things to see there, and you will either have to rent a bike or take an auto. If you decide to rent a bike, get something in writing from the guy about the condition of the bike and look like you know what you are doing here, as they might say something is wrong with it when you return it and try to get some money out of you for that. If you really do fall or have an accident, it is going to be a costly affair to rent a bike. As there were 3 of us, auto was the cheaper option anyways at Rs.350.00 for the whole trip that would take us 3 hours atleast.
There are some interesting things to do on this side, hiking up to the Anjaneya Parvatham was not easy; they say it is 600 steps, and although I didn’t count, there are definitely more like 1000 steps up to the mountain top and the heat was brutal. They don’t sell water up there so you have to carry what you need from below. But the view of the other side of Hampi across the Tungabhadra, the ruins and the whole city of the past can be seen and that was the moment the power of the kingdom and the enormity of the city came into focus for me. Pictures don’t quite do it all the justice, although they are much better than words, but to stand there and experience it is something I will have to repeat to believe.

There are other religious and historic sites, and are definitely worth seeing and listening to the tales and stories connected with them, part of the aura of India and its glory days of kings and kingdoms.

This is the side where the resorts and cottage like accommodations are, they are definitely more expensive and probably better for it, especially the food, although I would not have liked to stay on that side due to its remoteness to the town and lack of mobility or anything to do after 6pm. The hustle and bustle of the village of Hampi is exciting and may not last for ever as the whole area has been declared a protected site and the people there now say they will be moved as they do not own the land they built their houses on, and even if they did, the conservation society may force them to move anyways. It is part of why one should go there, I think, just being able to sit and see the evening activity and the way of life is interesting when you realize the place is so small you can walk it end to end in 15 minutes. Tourism is the industry, and there are a lot of foreigners that stay there for a while and enjoy the calm and quiet life. There was also a group of young archeologists from France and London that came to do some research and were going to stay there for almost a month.

The trip turned out to be near perfect except that we got caught in the scam of no tickets available and were forced not only to stay another day (the third day), but also pay almost twice as much for a return ticket through a broker. We would have had to pay half that amount to go to Hospet to catch our train if it wasn’t for a local boy I had bought a couple of meals for who came running to tell me there is a bus that is the last one to Hospet at around 7pm for Rs.12, instead of Rs.200 by auto!! So find out the bus timings a day before from a couple of different people and how long it takes to get via one of them to Hospet.

The third day was not a waste after all, as we walked out of the gates of Hampi and walked up this little hill we realized there were more ruins that not many people were seeing all over that hill. You could also see the main temple from an elevated level and the town of Hampi also. It was unexpected and interesting, so we enjoyed the walk for a couple of hours and ended up taking some of the best pictures of the temple and the town from there. It wasn’t a hectic day and it was nice to end on that note of seeing something just because we happened upon it and not because it was in a guide book or someone told us to go there.

As I said, the people survive on tourism, so they would like to keep you there as long as possible. So understand the people’s need to survive and not let go of their next good meal ticket, and be prepared so this lovely experience does not turn into a frustrating one at the end.

Little things like the medical shop is never open so carry your own first aid kit, the ATM never has enough money in it so carry all the money you think you will need or you will end you paying Rs.200 at least to go to Hospet and draw cash from an ATM that works 90% of the time! These are part of the allure of the land that has not caught up to all the development, which is why the prices are so affordable. So as I plan to go back there another time, I will just have to be better prepared with these things that I learnt the hard way! In retrospect, those in themselves are stories to tell and truly add to the mystery of rural India.

Angkor Wat

Trip Taken August 2009

After about 30 to 40 hours of research, the trip to Cambodia was a hectic and an intense experience. Information about the country from visa itself was a bit unsettling, so many sites claiming so much corruption in Cambodia that not only did I take more precautions than I ever did before, but most precautions, and even the first aid kit, went unused!

Visa on arrival took us all of 10 minutes; visa prices are printed on a board and the line moved quickly and smoothly: $20 tourist single entry, $25 business multiple entry. I can not really say about border crossing in a train or bus; those I spoke to didn’t complain of any problems, but they also looked like true back packers.

Baton Srey Temple

The negotiating starts when you walk out of the airport. Know that the only reason the town of Siem Reap exists is because around 4 million tourists go there a year to see the magnificent Angkor Wat ruins. So, as all tourist towns, the business people stick together and mind their own business; they are not going to tell you the true value of something or negotiate for you. For example, it cost me $70 to get from Phnom Pehn airport to Siem Reap. The cab was arranged by my guest house and he said he did not negotiate the rate since he was helping me out. I thought that was for an English speaking cab driver. But I had no email correspondence to prove it, plus the guy was already at the airport, so I went along. The ride would have cost me less had I looked for a cab at the airport and been smart enough to negotiate myself.

The people are very friendly and realize they live on tourism, so don’t panic. Check prices every step of the way. Although the guest houses arrange things for you, they are always at a higher price, you can just walk around the little market area and find out the cost of a tuk-tuk ($10-$12 off season, maybe $12-$15 during season), bicycle or a cab all day. And make the deal for 2 or 3 days on a per day basis. Their language is Khmer, and it is a poor country. So talk slowly and if you feel comfortable with the person, then proceed. If not, find another person to deal with. You won’t be frustrated and they won’t be upset. Whatever you do, smile and be polite. They are gentle people and are always smiling, so return the smile and that in it self will get you far.

Agnkor Wat

Rooms, dormitory style, are easily available for $5 per person. You can also find a/c rooms with attached bathroom with hot shower for two people for $12 – $18. Many people show up there and then find a room to their liking. If time is on your side, this works. If you are there for 3 to 4 days only, there is enough to do to keep you busy from 5am to 9pm, so plan before you go there. Here is a helpful website when it comes to checking out guesthouses and booking in advance : www.talesofasia.com. Another one is www.concierge.com.

I stayed in Siem Reap for three complete days, and that meant a heavy schedule the whole time. Angkor wat, with its sunrises and sunsets, and a trip to Baton Srey temple, will easily take three days in a normal way. It works out with the price of entrance to Angkor being $20 per day, but $40 for three days. Food in and around the temple is pricey for Cambodia, so ask your guide (around $25 per day) to take you to an inexpensive place for food if you are on a tight budget. Otherwise, Angkor can end up costing you over $75 a day with the balloon ride and all. A guide should be good for one day, just to get you a solid idea of the history and what there is to see. Then, it isn’t hard to go around on your own. The history lesson was helpful in understanding the significance of the architechture and the temples themselves.

The "Lara Croft" temple. But it is so much more than that!

A day trip to Kampong Khleang, a floating village about 30km away, will take half a day, from 7am to 2pm or so. There are other day trips you can make from Siem Reap, as it is the nicer and more touristy place to stay in around there, but Angkor Wat is the main attraction and many people don’t have the time to hang around there for more than three or four days.

Kampot

The next leg of the trip was to go south to Kampot. I took an overnight bus there. I was told later that that is not only an unsafe decision for me but also for my luggage that they throw in the cabin under the bus! I wondered how only ten of us, mostly tourists, were on a 50 seater nice a/c bus going cross country through Phnom Pehn. The guest house booked the bus ticket for me and did not say anything, so I thought it was safe, or at least, not unsafe.  Assumptions are bad, they say, and what may be safe for the locals need not be for tourists!

There was a minor incident with a single female back packer who was being harassed by the conductor, who spoke no English but apparently was hoping for some action with her; then he proceeded to me and I ended up screaming which in turn scared him. Worse could have happened, so no regrets, really. Cost of 350km across Cambodia: $16. And it saved me a day travelling. Nothing is ever worth the risk, but in hind sight, this was fine by me.

Valley

When hiring a car for a day trip, make sure you are specific about the timings of the car, as in from 8am to 6pm, or whatever, whether the price includes an English speaking driver an a/c that works. Make sure who ever books it for you, even a small tourist company writes all this down on your receipt in English. Otherwise you may end up with a driver who says no more than “Hello”, and pay for air conditioning that does not work. More than anything, it wastes your time to go back and find a replacement, even if the company is willing to do it.

If you decide to book a share taxi, ask what kind of a car it is, and how many people will be going in it. In Cambodia, typically, a Toyota Camry will seat three people in the two bucket seats in front and four adults in the back. That is seven in a car, with luggage as it comes. Not comfortable, and not always possible. It may be a true Cambodian experience as some of the tourists think of it, but not fun if there are six guys and one girl going. If there are any delicate things you bought along the way, consider them broken if you go along with the driver slamming the trunk on your luggage to make it all fit! But it is definitely a cheap ride and faster than the city to city busses.

Phnom Pehn is the capital city and the largest city. Coming into Phnom Pehn from the country side will bring you back to the reality of the world. The remoteness and peacefulness and the people laying in hammocks under their stilt houses all vanished and the smells and sounds of a vibrant crowded city comes suddenly into focus. Civilization brings forth the evils of man, as girls walk the streets all night and little children sell flowers and books and other stuff along the River walk, the tourist central for bars and restaurants. The River Walk is a safe heaven for the tourists but the side streets show a side of why some go to Cambodia and the demand and supply cycle of life.

Goodies at the market in Phnom Pehn

I did not quite make it to Sihanoukville, another beach town in South Cambodia, but from what I hear, it is fast becoming a beach resort. It provides day and night trips onto several islands close to it, has snorkeling and diving trips, picnics and even a five star resort on one of the islands. Many tourists go there to relax and enjoy the sun and water games. I am dark skinned and had no time to relax in the one week I was there; plus someone pointed out that Kampot and Kep (where I stayed for two days) was the same thing with fewer tourists and less noise and pollution, so I willingly passed.

There are other attractions like a trip up the Mekong river to see the rare Irrawaddy dolphins in the Kratie province. Kampong Thom is another province not so spoken about and hence not given enough significance but it is definitely worth going to even for a day to see more Angkorian temples.

Shopping in Cambodia is fun and colorful. Silk is made here, so the thing to buy is a silk purse and maybe cushion covers. I did. If you are bad at bargaining, you will get good by the time you walk through one market, which will take you at least a couple of hours. Mostly, you can get the item for less than half the price the sales girl is quoting you. The cushion covers were $5 each in one place, and I ended up paying $1.50 each for sixteen! Even if I bought six, I would have got them for no more than $1.75 each. So that is the basic rule of the game. Each market sells pretty much the same stuff. So walk around and see what you like. Once you ask them for the price, it is difficult to walk away without buying anything at all as they keep saying they will discount it for you.

The internet is a wonderful thing these days. You may enjoy carrying a Lonely Planet book with you, but it is not easy to find answers to simple questions as it is on the net. So do some reading first, plan a bit, and be a little flexible. You may hear someone tell you of a great experience somewhere and decide that is a better option than the one you planned. Not to worry, changing course and finding a way to get there is not that hard. Once you are in Cambodia, the people will help you get where you want and do what you want to do.

Wikipidia is always a gold mine. It has details about every town, so much so that I found it scary once I got there! It may be your next online one-stop-shop like the Lonely planet book. Check it out and enjoy Cambodia. There is hardly anything you can do not to enjoy the country, its history, the people and their culture. Oh, and don’t miss out on the incredible massages after a long day in the sun. You won’t find a place that does them for better, cheaper.

Don’t bother carrying anything but USD in cash. Even traveller’s checks are hard to exchange and no one likes doing it except if they charge you 3%-5% fee. No one talks in riel, only change for less than a dollar is given in riel in most places in Cambodia. Maybe in very rural towns they use riel, but not anywhere I went! The prices are quoted in USD, you bargain in USD and if there is change to be given it is in riel. It is 4190 riel per dollar, but you loose on exchange because everyone just quotes 4000 riel to a dollar. Credit cards are rarely accepted in the smaller budget guesthouses but will do in larger hotels and nicer restaurants. You better ask before you eat, though!
My over all trip expense for seven nights and eight days including food, board, tickets, travel with in Cambodia etc. amounted to just over $600, which is not bad, I think. Cheaper is easily possible, just with cheaper food and renting a bicycle for $2 a day instead of a tuk-tuk for $10 a day, but that again would mean I had time on my side, and I didn’t! A wonderful look at the tip of the ice burg that is Cambodia will take two weeks. I plan to go back, and soon. Maybe I can polish the cheaper way to back pack then!

Drop me a line or any questions. There is no way you can not enjoy your trip to Cambodia, so don’t sweat the details.

Facts to compare:

Cambodia : 181,000 sq km, Population : 14 million
State of New York : 141,000 sq km, Population : 20 million
Mumbai (Bombay): 57,000 sq km, Population : 14 million.